How To.. Fit Artwork in a Wood Frame

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It is important to check your new picture frame/mount for any damage before you start dismantling it as we will only accept claims for obvious damage to the frame if the damage is reported before it has been used.

Be Prepared

Your picture frame is designed for ease of use and comes complete with glazing(by default), an MDF backing board, and all the necessary hanging fixtures. To ensure safe and straightforward access to the frame�s contents, please follow the steps outlined below.

Place the frame face down on a clean, flat surface to avoid scratching either the frame or the glazing.
Make sure you have a small screwdriver to hand, as this will be helpful for moving the tabs.
The frame is fitted with black (or silver) flexible tabs around the rebate to secure the glazing and backing board.
Carefully use a small screwdriver to bend back each of these tabs. Take care, as the tabs can be sharp.
Ensure all tabs are fully bent back so that they do not obstruct removal of the glazing and backing board.
Note: Do not attempt to remove the tabs entirely using pliers or any other tool. The tabs are designed to flex and remain in place, making the process of opening and resealing the frame simple and safe.
With the tabs bent back, carefully lift out the glazing and the MDF backing board from the frame.
Set these components aside on a soft surface to avoid damage or scratches.

Prepare The Glazing

The glazing in your frame, whether it is clear or anti-reflective, is supplied with a protective film on both sides. This film protects the acrylic from scratches and damage during transit and handling. Please note that until the film is removed, the acrylic may appear to have the wrong colour or look scratched. It is essential to peel off the protective film from both sides before assessing the quality of the acrylic.

Once the protective film has been peeled off, the frame is considered to have been used. For this reason, please ensure you are satisfied with your purchase before removing the film.

Wipe down both sides of the protective film using a clean micro fibre cloth.
Be sure to also wipe around the edges of the glazing.
This process helps to eliminate static electricity and remove any dust particles that may be present.
Begin peeling the film from the outer edge inwards.
This technique helps to trap any remaining dust particles inside the film, rather than on the acrylic surface.
Once the protective films have been removed, handle the acrylic sheet only by its edges to avoid leaving fingerprints or marks on the surface.
Carefully place the acrylic back into the frame, ensuring not to touch the face of the glazing.

Anti-Reflective Glazing: If you have purchased anti-reflective glazing, it is important to note that the side with the anti-reflective coating should be facing outwards when placed in the frame. This will ensure lights reflections are absorbed.

Fitting The Artwork

With the acrylic securely back in the frame, carefully place your prepared artwork and the backing board into position. Once everything is aligned and sitting flat, bend the flexible tabs back down to hold all the layers firmly in place. This ensures that your artwork, backing, and glazing are all snug and secure within the frame.

Inspecting and Admiring Your Work

Turn the frame over to view the front. Take a moment to admire your framed artwork. At this stage, check for any visible dust or debris that may have found its way inside during assembly. If you notice any, carefully open the frame and remove it before proceeding further.

Taping Up the Back for a Professional Finish

If you are satisfied with the appearance and cleanliness of your framed piece, you can move on to sealing the back of the frame. This step not only gives your project a more professional look but also helps to keep out dust and adds an extra layer of security.

We recommend using 25mm or 38mm wide kraft brown tape, both of which are available as optional extras on our website. Apply the tape along the edges of the frame back, ensuring a neat and even finish all the way around.

Extra Security for Larger Frames

For larger frames or those made with thinner moulding profiles, taping up the back is especially important. This additional step can help prevent minor warping of the moulding over time and ensures your artwork remains safely in place.

Fitting the Hanging Fixtures.

Our wood picture frames are supplied with hanging fixtures suitable for the individual frame. Thinner moulding profiles are supplied with slide over hangers that simply slide over the MDF prior to it being fitted, one on each side and about 1/3rd from top. Wider profile mouldings are supplied with D Rings and screws, with the screws going directly into the moulding, one on each side and about 1/3rd from top. The supplied cord is then passed through the D Rings or slide over hangers and tied securely.

Final Thoughts

By following these steps, you will have given your artwork a secure, dust-free, and attractive presentation. Properly taping up the back not only enhances the look but also extends the longevity of your frame and its contents. Enjoy displaying your professionally finished artwork!

Why don't you use real glass? is a question potential clients have asked on a number of occasions. This is most probably due to the many misconceptions amongst the general public as to the quality of the acrylic glazing we use as standard in our custom made picture frames. These misconceptions are created by the cheap styrene glazing that can be found in picture frames mass produced in the Far East and sold by stack 'em high, sell 'em cheap department stores. Styrene glazing is generally very thin, creating a wavy look in the frame, and will go yellow over time. Acrylic is not styrene glazing and shouldn't be confused with it as they are incomparable products. Acrylic is much clearer than the standard float glass used in most picture frames, and offers far greater protection against harmful UV rays. Just as important, acrylic is much lighter than glass and will not break thus making it a product more suited to being sent around the country via a courier network. It is also an incorrect assumption that we use acrylic as it is cheaper than glass when acrylic actually costs about twice the price of glass.
It would be fair to say acrylic is a little more difficult to work with in terms of removing the static it will generate and dust particles attracted to it by the static. However, with a little practice and guidance from us, it is really straightforward.

Be Prepared

Make sure you have everything prepared first before you start handling the acrylic. With your prepared artwork, have a trial run. Make sure everything fits into the frame to ensure you do not need to adjust the artwork or mount size. There may be some flakes of wood or paint inside the rebate of the frame so you should wipe along the inside edge, taking care not to cut yourself on any of the flexible tabs, to remove any debris.

Acrylic will attract dust as it generates static. You can eliminate this as much as possible by working on a clean, dust free, surface such as a kitchen table. Do not put the acrylic on carpet as it will attract dust particles thus making the process a little more tedious.

Cleaning Acrylic

The acrylic will have a protective film on both sides. Depending on the type of acrylic you have ordered, this may be a solid white colour, or a transparent blue colour. Wipe over the protective film on both sides and the edges of the acrylic using a slightly damp soft cloth. Wiping over the film before it is removed will kill any static and remove any dust. The film can now be removed, by peeling each corner inwards towards the centre so that any remaining dust is trapped within the film. To avoid having to wipe off fingerprints, you should only handle the acrylic at the edges. With both films removed the acrylic should be gently refitted into the frame, followed by the artwork and backing. If everything has gone to plan, you shouldn't have any noticeable dust or debris inside the frame. If you do need to wipe the acrylic after the film has been removed, we recommend using a micro fibre cloth which are readily available from all supermarkets in UK.

Caring For Acrylic

There are lots of cleaning products available that will help clean acrylic, and also some which will even 'remove scratches'. Any cleaning product used should be ammonia free and recommended for use with acrylic, certainly do not use normal glass cleaner as it will react with the acrylic and make it go cloudy.

I have lots of pictures fitted with acrylic in my house, and I have never, ever had the need to purchase any acrylic cleaner or scratch remover so I cannot recommend any particular brand or even confirm they work. To clean my pictures, I gently wipe the glazing with a microfibre cloth to remove any dust, whilst fingerprints can be removed with a slightly damp cloth.

Article Posted: 07/06/2018 10:26:20